Thursday
I awoke at 4pm in the Chambres d'hotes dans l' Yonne (
http://rtrip.e-monsite.com/accueil.html ), in La Cour Barree on the Canal de Nivernais in Burgundy, just south of Auxerre, and needed a glass of wine. Fortunately, Raymond Tipote, the owner, had supplied us with a bottle of fine Chablis before Vicki and I had started our recuperation nap.
The flight from Philly to Paris had been easy. We had done mind excercises and I had even started yoga classes for a week before or so to adjust to being in coach of a overstuffed airplane for 7 hours. But the non-rev fairy had touched us on the shoulder at the last minute and produced two business class seats. Arriving in Paris we are given cards for a"1st Access" line to immigration, a check point just for the people in the pointy end of the plane. I had gone for this earlier this year and found out, that at this time of day, the line for the masses is much quicker and a lot closer. So we chose that one and were at the Avis counter in minutes.
Leaving Paris in rush hour in a rental car can be dangerous. But, it went well and slow. The slow part really helped. No missed turns.
The plan had been to catch the TVG (the fast train) to Dijon from Paris. However, these tickets are priced like airline tickets. I did not want to commit early, not being sure if we could get on the airplane, and by the time I was ready to buy, the tickets had gone from 40 euro (about $55) to 115 euro. I found a rental car for 125 euro for almost 3 days and opted for it, thus giving us a more flexible travel plan. Besides, we knew Dijon. Now we can see more of the countryside.
Halfway between Paris and Dijn is Auxerre and the plan was to find a little Chambre d'hotes in the country and spend a few days there exploring. The very nice lady at the Tourist Information in Auxerre recommended this one and a few others but this was the first we came to and we needed a nap. A fine choice.
After the nap, a walk on the canal and a fine dinner in the room.
raymond and his chambre d'hotes
canal nivernais
Friday
Breakfast was scheduled, by Vicki, at 8am. Those who know her know this is a little optimistic. So, here is the breakfast table at 8:10. Note the "coffee bowl", rural thing.
We were off to Auxerre about 9:30, just a few kilometers away. Nice little historic town with several large cathedrals. It is not crowded with tourists or anyone else this time of year.
a double barrier
"don't touch the lettuce"
thanks to my neighbor Toni, I now know all about cathedral consturction
We stopped for a noon beer and to study the map. The map came with some interesting info. The legal limit of alcohol for driving is almost twice as high, .08 vs. .05, in England and Ireland than in the rest of Europe.
We headed out through the hills and dales. This is Colza or canola oil country. As far as the eye could see were yellow fields of oil.
Last time we were in France in April, it snowed. This time, as my neighbor Bill says "this is chamber of commerce weather". It is perfect, blue skies, temp's mid 50's to mid 70's, and is forecast to remain this way for the next week or so.
Around 1pm, though not hungry, we decided to search for lunch. Places to eat are few in the true country, but in the village of Escamps there was an eating establishment. Vicki did not like the looks, but I decided to give it try.
The interior was solely utilitarian. There seemed to be only once choice for lunch and that is what we got. A four course meal of salad, entre, cheese, desert, with bread, wine and coffee cost 10 euro each. This was a bargain. Granted, the meat was not top grade, but I liked mine. We were the only customers and
Chef Chrerny was very concerned that we enjoy our lunch. The picture I missed today was when Chrernay came with the coffee and we had not finished desert. Coffee in Europe is drunk by itself, not with another course, except breakfast. The surprised look on his face when he turned the corner with coffee and saw the desert still on the table would have been great picture.
Roaming the countryside Vicki thought she was seeing things. Fortunately it was just model airplanes in the middle of nowhere and camels.
We stopped for a cup of coffee at this nice bar and then headed home around 5pm to call it a day.
